No, they use there own brand ones that are not up to much by comparision.
Yes your warranty will be effected, but that's the price you pay for fitting much better quality parts.
With a good cabinet design and drivers (which the MA RS series has) it would give major problems selling the better ranges if they fitted bypassed Clarity Cap SA to them!
It is like lifting off a blanket that has been layed over the speakers.
so now how do i do go about replacing them is there a guide how to do it or is it straight forward?
No guide as such, but have been modifing my speakers for years!
Basically lay the speaker on the floor and unscrew the back panel.
You need a soldering iron to unsolder the two caps (noting there values) or you could just snip them out I suppose.
Next flux and tin the replacement ones up then solder them in.
They are about half as big again as the ones you took out so one of them needs to be fitted sideways onto the board. Just common sense really.
Then tag on the Vishays (they are tiny things who's leads just solder onto each end of the new caps).
Fit new cable ties, I put a line of white silicon down for the caps to bed down on which helps dampen vibration. Then wrap some wool fibre over the crossover board (for the same reason), and fit back into the speaker.
Job done. Going slow and careful will take about an hour for both. (Plus cups of tea)
Then get your wife/girlfriend to snap a picture of your face when you put on one of your favourite tracks. Priceless!
where do i purchase Clarity Cap SA MKP 630VDC and Vishay MKP1837?
Bought mine from
and the MKP1857 from Farnels.
I found the Kimber 8tc very balanced tonally- natural, warm detailed with a large soundstage. Its been around for many years and still gets rave reviews, the 4tc just reviewed by what hifi and was recommended too - a little less full sounding (leaner) and slightly smaller soundstaging.
I am also getting the Panamax MAX© 4300-PM is there anything better at the same price $249 canadian. its a power conditioner
Level 2 Power Cleaning and Linear Filtration eliminates common symptoms of contaminated power (including loss of detail, pops, hisses, hums and visual artifacts) and allows your A/V equipment to perform up to its full capability.
Panamax's patent pending AVMT circuitry continuously monitors the incoming power as displayed on the digital voltmeter. In case of an undervoltage or an overvoltage, a flashing red lightning bolt will be displayed in the voltmeter, and power to the connected equipment is automatically turned off if either of these conditions is detected. When voltage returns to a safe level, power to the equipment is automatically reconnected.
The M4300-PM is designed to provide noise isolation between 2 isolated outlet banks including 4 high current outlets so that any noise created by an A/V component can not contaminate the power going to equipment plugged into another outlet bank.
I will be buying the RS8's and was wondering if the crossover modification that you made is now being installed in the current RS8's. It sounds like Monitor Audio is aware of the issue. Could you direct me to a contact at Monitor Audio to speak to about this? Is the modification difficult?
Just ask for a circuit diagram to be posted out to you and ask to speak to one of the tech guys.
Think the clarity cap mod is well outside the manufacturing price point. Don't think the caps in the Gold series will be as good either.
You will find them apparently in the top end of the B&W ranges.
trevor79, thanks. Three questions:
Would you be able to send me the wiring diagram? (email is
What is the part number of the Clarity Cap you used?
If I understand the mod correctly, I will need 2 Vishays and 2 Clarity Caps per speaker (total of 4 of each)?
Should i get the power conditioner to suply the contious wattage the systems needs? if so is this a good one panamax 4300
Not familiar with this one in the UK. Personally I prefer a BIG Mains Transformer with surge protection to do the cleaning and smoothing of the supply. I don't like anything with LED lights, meters, built in as they put 'Noise' onto the supply as well.
Would start off 1st with buying decent Mains cables to replace the Kettle leads (plenty of posts on here about them), doing the Clarity Cap mods and running the whole system in for a good 200hrs.
Will be surprised if you are not very pleased with how your system sounds, which will be miles better than leaving everything as it was.
I have no idea how clean your grid is where you live and the amount of pollution on it, how far it is from the Sub Station, the quality of the supply Earthing etc. These things greatly effect the degree of improvement on things. If you live in the middle of the countryside with few uses on the grid the improvements will be much less than if you live in the city with many computers, fluorescent lights etc putting pollution onto the Mains.
I think one last question, also to anyone as well. Bi-Wire or not to Bi-wire? I have read all of this site and a few other sites and got more confused. You have monitor audios like me should i purchase bi wire cables or just the regular cables?
Some say huge improve ments some say nothing changes, Some say it depends how good your speakers are, or the receiver.
By the way im going with Ultralink cables either EXCELSIOR 2.4© MkIIBI-WIRE SPEAKER CABLE or AMBIANCE© MkIISPEAKER CABLE. My wife has a client who is a speaker cable specialis he use to work for sony and paradigm and she never mentioned this to me the whole time and he recomended these 2 over kimber and chord.
They will do the same thing in the price range i was looking for they cost about $450 Canadian for 3metres. i iwll get the discount
also banana plugs on both ends?
Good morning (UK time)
On my system I have the fronts Bi-wired and Bi-amped. Prefer to run seperate cables rather than linked ones with Bi-amping, but that's just me.