The speaker baffle is a fairly important part of the cabinet. It is there to provide a solid foundation for the driver without adding additional vibration. Thing is, everything vibrates just not necesseraly at the same frequencies.
I guess at worst you have a front baffle which is the same thickness as the rest of the cabinet and which is simply screwed or glued on. Add the inevitable screw fix method of the driver/baffle interface and there is plenty of scope for mechanical interaction.
Along with the Usher I use a couple of elderly but lovely MS speakers regularely. They are fantastic as the xover is minimal intrusive and a lot of attention has been paid by the original MS company with Robin Marshal to develop drivers which integrate with each other rather than the usual buying drivers of an OEM or a few well known other companies and then design a crossover around it to get around the driver integration issue.
In essence, these were made to measure speakers rather than off-the-peg.
They've also moulded the Mid-Bass driver (solidly) to the composite plastic baffle! Depending which way you look at it, that is either a negative or clever. - Blow one and you need a whole baffle but it does take the wood screws away from the driver basket (although they are still used to secure the baffle to the cabinet).
As much as I love the tight bass, open imaging, rythmic drive and good power handling of these speakers (MS10iPearl, MS20iPearl) there is always room for improvement andI've tackled the areas where cost-saving has been evident (This was a budget speaker rather than 'esoterica');
Thickness of the enclosure walls is average, bracing consists of one inner baffle, running the height of the enclosure to which the front baffle is fixed to with the necessary cut-out for the drivers. In addition there are a few triangular pieces of wood near the corners of the enclosure to add a modicum of stiffness. Damping material is one piece of fibre wool which covers the rear-baffle and crossover which is attached to the speaker terminal plate.
Some time ago, I've rewired the speakers (all of them, inluding Ushers) using good quality copper cable for the mid-woofers and a thinner, silver plated cabling for the (metal) tweeters. Luckily I didn'tat that time hardwire everything but used spades against my own judgement (I had a feeling I was going to do more so de-soldering numerous times was impractical).
Anyways, I have added an additional two, slender internal cross braces to the MS10's. I then added egg carton foam to the remaining top, bottom and side walls. In addition I have used round foam pads of increasingly reduced diameter (think cone) to reduce backward radiation towards the cone of the bass driver basket outriggers, four in all.
These easy to do changes have made the sound even less boxy and reduced sound radiation back through the cone. Result is better texture and cleaner transients.
Move forward a couple of months and off comes the front baffle again. - Whilst stiff and 'relatively' resonance free, there are handy stiffening cross braces and compartmentswhich divide the composite front panel (and even the bass driver outriggers). I got some PVA glue and filled every bit I could, inserting stainless steel nuts everywhere which are now covered by the glue.
Result is a very inert and solid front baffle, pretty much 'dead' to knuckle raps.
I then cut some gaskets for both the entire front baffle and tweeter (to further isolate that unit, it is fitted conventionally to the front) out of bonded cork which I got cheaply in my local craft store.
I dont claim miracles but the sound now has even better and more solid imaging and transient response. This is more obvious as volume increases but even at low listening levels there is a composure and fine musical detail that just wasn't there before and it was a pretty decent speaker to start with.
I love hifi. Next come the MS20's for the same treatment.