How are you getting on with the new 3D3 glasses Strapped mate?
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Panasonic 65VT65, Marantz UD7007, HIFi Racks Podium Reference
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The double click "Samsung mode" helps, but I'm still not entirely convinced. Strangely, I could see more crosstalk in some scenes using the Panny glasses, and more crosstalk in other scenes using the 3D3s. (I've been watching in a batcave today, as I've blacked out all the windows in my living room.)
Crucially I still think the 3D3s allow too much light to pass through the lenses. As strange as that sounds, black still level looks greyer using the 3D3s, no matter how I set the TV up. If I set gamma to 2.6, panel luminance to low, and brightness to a level that crushes black detail, dark scenes and letterboxes still look a shade too grey. This isn't true with the Panasonic glasses, but the trade off is a duller image overall.
After a day's testing, I'm not sure I'm any the wiser. I may choose the 3D3s simply because I won't have to reorder batteries.
I'll see what Jules thinks tomorrow, as it'd be good to get hs opinion.
Hardware: Panasonic TX-P50VT65B (calibrated); Cambridge Audio Azur 651BD; Yamaha RX-A810; Teac PD-H600; PS3; B&W 601 & 600LCR (series 3); Q Acoustics QAV (rear)
Furniture and Accessories: BLOK Classix 3000 Oak AV Cabinet; Atacama Nexus 6 (atabite metal filled); 3D3 A1112
That is interesting - we have different tvs in size but you see things different to me even though its the same tv When i set to 2.4 gamma that darkens the image enough to counteract the high luminance effect on the pic It was my idea for you to buy tge 3d3 - if you choosr to use the pannys i will happilly swop you my panny glasses for your 3d3 if you want.. That way you will have more pairs without spending more money. Just an idea i have hardly touched them i put them straight in cases and they have stayed there
That is interesting - we have different tvs in size but you see things different to me even though its the same tv
When i set to 2.4 gamma that darkens the image enough to counteract the high luminance effect on the pic
It was my idea for you to buy tge 3d3 - if you choosr to use the pannys i will happilly swop you my panny glasses for your 3d3 if you want.. That way you will have more pairs without spending more money. Just an idea i have hardly touched them i put them straight in cases and they have stayed there
If I decide to keep the Pannys then that makes a lot of sense. I'll let you know. I need to make a decision soon, as Jules will be here in a few minutes.
Kepp us posted of how the cal goes - I am especially inetersted to know if Jules uses Standard windows or if he uses APL windows.
I found APL windows was monstrously different to a normal window.
Also keep a cheeky eye on how he does your 3D cal....
Cal done; all looking very nice indeed!
Can you set your i1 to non-contact mode? If so, you can do a 3D calibration with the aid of a tripod and sellotape. I'm sure someone will invent a glasses mount or clip for future meters, but at the moment calibrators have to improvise.
Prepare for hell, though, especially if you're calibrating through the 3D3s. The VT65 tints 3D images toward blue, while the 3D3s have quite a heavy blue tint as well. The errors on the initial reading were enormous and the 3D calibration took longer than day and night calibrations combined. Low level readings fluctuate substantially and it took quite an effort to rein things in.
After watching Jules work, I concluded that I wouldn't attempt a 3D calibration without considerable experience, though I'd give 2D calibration a go with a meter and Calman. (Jules uses ChromaPure.)
As for APL vs. standard windows, I honestly can't say. I'm a numpty when it comes to computers and IT. (I can get a handle on anything I need to, but most of the time I'm not interested.) I spent the day with my eyes darting between watching Jules' laptop and the TV. If you can advise what I should have been looking for, I can hopefully answer that question.
I'd also highly recommend Jules to anyone interested in a professional calibration; his prices are competitive and the service and attention to detail fantastic.
Should have added, I'm sticking with the 3D3s. The panny glasses lost connection a few times last night and the battery life isn't at all impressive.
I can't be bothered to buy new batteries all the time. Though 3D will make up a small minority of my viewing, I haven't used the Panny glasses much and the battery on the pair I used is almost dead. Perhaps it was a dodgy battery, but I had to make a decision. The Panny glasses will go on ebay.
3D calibration really does make a big difference, simply because greyscale and colour are so wildly inaccurate out of the box.
Sounds like you are happy mate - nice one! How much does it roughly cost then? What are the main differences you have noticed? Cheers.
Main AV Setup: Panasonic 50VT65 TV, Pioneer Bdp-lx71, Pioneer Vsx-lx70, B&W FPM Series, B&W PV1, Optimum AV300 AV Stand, QED Silver Anniversary XT Speaker Cable & Chord Silver Plus HDMI Cables. Gadgets: iPad Air & iPhone 4S.
The calibration cost £205 (+ petrol costs if he has to travel a fair distance), which is very reasonable. Jules is incredibly thorough at very competitive prices. He lives in Leicester. I think he's pretty local to you, so he might not charge you for petrol. I paid £205 flat.
If you're considering other upgrades, honestly, get your TV calibrated first. The difference is substantial. You don't realise how far out your colours are until you see the charts. The difference after calibration is immediately apparent by eye. Detail and depth are also markedly improved. If I flick back to any other (uncalibrated) preset, it looks horrible now. Blacks are deeper, too, once Gamma is properly set up. (Gamma is wide of the mark on Panny plasmas out of the box.) Shadow detail improves quite a bit as well. I'm delighted with the results.
The difference after 3D calibration is even more pronounced, because greyscale, colour, and gamma are so far out to begin with.
Ah nice one, cheers. Jules is a Norwich fan I believe too. Yep, the calibrated pictures I have seen are nice, which got me wondering!
You might get a special Canary fan discount then!
After years wondering whether to get my TV calibrated, I'm now wondering why I didn't do it sooner. All that money spent on kit in the hope of small improvement seems silly now. Calibration is the best value "upgrade" I've made, by quite some margin.
Hi Strapped, sounds like you've had a result here, glad its made such a positive difference. How long had you been running your set for before you had it calibrated? This is definitely something I want to do, and am inpatient to do it, but don't want to get inferior results from not running in properly first.
Lounge: Panasonic TX-P60ZT65B (calibrated), Pioneer SC-LX75, Denon DPB-2012, Sky-HD1TB, PS4, Xbox 360, Apple-TV, Atacama Equinox AV stand, Monitor Audio Silver RX8, RXC, RX-FX, RXW-12. Kitchen: Pioneer XC-HM81, Monitor Audio Bronze BX2. Bedroom: Samsung UE37D6510, Samsung BD-C5900, Sky-HD, Pioneer N-50, Rotel RC-03 (pre-amp), Rotel RB-9708X (power-amp), Mordaunt-Short MS914
Can you set your i1 to non-contact mode? If so, you can do a 3D calibration with the aid of a tripod and sellotape.
I had to laugh reading this, all the technology in the world and we still need to use Sellotape. Absolutely priceless
glad your enjoying your new tv strapped after the issues you had with your last one, and glad the calibration has again received positive feedback. Will have to get that sorted once I've got the tv issue done and dusted.
I'd clocked up about 600 hours, which is arguably excessive, but I'd heard reports of Panasonics drifting quite a bit in the early days. (I thought better safe than sorry.)
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