Thats funny I have been testing the 3D3 as well but I prefer them to the Pannys - I get a kind of floating blacks in avatar with the Pannys - I think I might know why now though.
The Pannys definately appear more colourful - but I think the end result will be better with the 3D3 as they have lighter lenses and you need to blast the contrast much less with them to get a good image. I found brightness +7 is needed with the 3D3 contrast 82 - colour 67 and normal and high luminance, edge smoother on and some sharpness about 25 to compensate for bad greyscale.
I dont know if you noticed the error with the 3D3 glasses, really the instructions - I have a good eye for stuff like this
Firstly you have to set them to be optimised to Samsung - ie. double click so you get 5 fashes on the blue led - that makes a Huge difference to the performance! I had a good chat with Craig who does the firmware for them - he said I was right pointing out the error and they need to change the manual
C lours look off with lots purple fringing with them set to Panasonic mode (solid light) - try them again mate in Samsung mode if you havent already. really makes a difference. They are much more 3D then the Pannys - everyone I have had test them both prefer the 3D3 when they go back and fourth
Secondly you need the tv set to the right refresh otherwise you get errors and flickering in the left eye. Avatar is best on 100hz and other films better on 120htz so selecting auto covers that and stops flickeringI have found so far
I just bought a second set and tested them fior a few seconds with Titanic that came today - was looking EDITED hot
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I had no idea the glasses could be optimised to work a specific manufacturer's products. (I was under the impression that they auto-sync with any TV and that's that.) I'll give it a try, so cheers for the info.
Out of interest, which 3D3s do you have? I have the A1112s rather than the A1111s. I'm not sure what the difference is, or indeed if there is any difference, apart from the price.
Hardware: Panasonic TX-P50VT65B (calibrated); Cambridge Audio Azur 651BD; Yamaha RX-A810; Teac PD-H600; PS3; B&W 601 & 600LCR (series 3); Q Acoustics QAV (rear)
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I dont know if you looked through the manual and if they have changed it.
Apparently their older glasses only came with the firmware for the cusotmers particular set - now they have the option to change between 2 to suit diff tvs to make the glasses more universal.
However the a1112 i have auto default to Panasonic but thats only good for the 50 range, the new 65 range works better on the samsung mode.
They told me they knew - I have a funny feeling I pointed this out to them - either way it doesnt matter.
the only difference between the a1111 and a1112 is that the a1111 do IR as well as BT so for older tvs as well.
Make sure your glasses have the latest firmware mate so that you can select samsung mode - they are changing the name to mode 2.
doublke click the button so you get 5 quick successive flashes and you are good to go - once the settings are changed.
hi ellisdj you can come and calibrate my tv if you like i have been looking in to getting mine done,from reading what you said about calibration its sound well worth doing.cheers david
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Thanks Ellis DJ,
I'll experiment tonight. As I have Panny and TPS glasses, I only need to decide which ones to hand to Jules when he turns up on Wednesday.
I'm looking forward to seeing the results. I'd considered going the DIY route like yourself, but getting Jules in is cheaper in the short term. I'm pressed for time, too, though I'm sure I'll buy a meter and Calman (probably) at some point in the future.
I'm hugely confused now.
There's nothing in the manual about optimising the glasses to work with a specific manufacturer's TV. I accessed the TPS website and downloaded the latest manual; and again there's nothing about the processes you mention.
I've tried hitting the operation button twice in succession as you describe, but this has no effect, even if I try this procedure repeatedly standing right next to the television. The glasses work perfectly fine, but nothing I do influences how they work, unless I switch between 100 and 120Hz on the TV, in which case the glasses sync automatically at the new refresh rate.
When you talk about updating firmware, presumably you mean updating the TV's firmware. (As I understand it, it's impossible to update the glasses' firmware, unless I'm missing something fundamental here.)
I meant the glasses firmware - I have the latest firmware v5.5 but the glasses are the same A1112
You might be able to get them updated as you have now changed your tv. I find the firmware for the vt50 pannys really doesn't work well but not sure how yours compare obviously.
You have 2 options on the glasses now to make the glasses more universal - I thought yours would be the same but obviously not. Thinks that's why you prefer the pannys, you might prefer them anyway
Thanks v. much mate.
Hmm, that makes life complicated. I'm guessing I'd have to return the glasses to TPS to update the firmware. I wouldn't have time to do this before Wednesday, so I'll have to make a decision regarding which glasses to hand over to Jules before calibration. Whatever I decide I might as well sell the other glasses, since the TV would be calibrated to account for the glasses' tint, amount of light passing through the lenses, etc.
Out of interest, what do the 3D3s (updated with the latest firmware) give you that the Panny glasses don't? Also, how do you find black level using the 3D3s? I find images look quite washed out and MLL looks pretty grey, even after proper adjustment of brightness and contrast.
I prefer the 3D3s for general comfort and the amount of ambient light blocked. Obviously they're rechargeable, too, so no messing around with batteries. I don't see how firmware would affect tint or brightness levels.
you have a couple of options - first is a call to TPS and speak to Craig to see what they say about the glasses you have firmware.
See what he says about your glasses performance with the vt65 - I would explain your getting the TV cal'd see what he suggests
you could buy a new set and get them by Tuesday - however don't just take my word for it as its £40
testing them both I preferred the 3D3 but unless you see them going properly you won't know, in terms of black performance the main scene I can think of is vioerwolves in avatar and its stunning through the 3d3. I find they have more pop to the picture and are clearer. 3D3 are supposed to be Putting up some reco settings but we'll see. That's no good for you either
if you get pannys 3d cal'd then I still think they will be ace mate
I will test again for you tomorrow mate,
As TPS won't be open tomorrow, I've dropped them a PM. I'll see what they say.
Ideally I'd like to hang on to the 3D3s, for the better build quality and the fact that they're rechargeable. As you say, I can get another pair delivered, if there's any difference. I might also pop down to RS to pick up a CA 651BD on Monday. Since I'm getting a pro-cal, it seems sensible to stick with the same components for a good while. The Panny 120 is an excellent performer for the price, but it's a bit flimsy and I'm not sure how long it'll last.
It'll be a relatively expensive week, but I can claw some of the money back by selling the Panny BDP and glasses (and perhaps my current 3D3s if I need to replace them).
What are you going to do to the 120 that would mean it won't last? My Sony BDPs are more plasticky than I would like / than most of my other components but they sit where they sit and are unmolested, and I don't expect them spontaneously to break.
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I'm not planning on doing anything unusual to the 120. It might still be going strong five years from now. By the same token, I could buy the CA and it could break the next day. I'd have more faith in the sturdily built machine, though.
I'm debating whether to pick up a CA 651BD now that they're cheap. The 651 upscales better than the 120 and is quieter in operation. As for 1080p playback, well, let's not start that one again. I'll be interested to compare the two BDPs in this regard, but I don't anticipate any difference.
To be honest, the AV snob in me doesn't like a budget BDP sat among expensive equipment, even if it's hidden from view. Make of that what you will. The decision may be entirely irrational, which is why I'm debating whether it's worth it. I still have quite a few DVDs and some 1080i BDs, so there may be some value in the purchase. I also don't have a SACD player, so the 651 would fill a gap in that regard. If I hadn't bought the Teac PDH-500 CDP, I'd definitely do it.
Tbh I don't see much relation between outer build quality and internal reliability and in many ways I'd prefer the product of the huge multinational in that regard. I've always found panasonic's reliability in particular to be excellent. So to justify it on that ground may be irrational. It's not irrational to justify it on looks / pride of ownership if that's important to you and worth the cost, but I'd say you're better concentrating on that real issue. The DVD upscaling is worth an audition to see the significance of the difference, I'm not sure speculation on that point necessarily justifies the cost.
Fwiw I agree with your earlier post that the source for 1080p material should make no difference for your calibration, so there should be no need to rush into a purchase if you don't want to.
My main concern is which 3D glasses to use, as that will make a substantial difference to the calibration. The lenses' tint and the amount of light passing through differ greatly from manufacturer to manufacturer. If I ultimately use a different brand of glasses, 3D calibration becomes pointless.
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