I sold my Kuro for three reasons. Firstly, the 5 year warranty had just run out, secondly, I wanted a smart tv, and finally, I wanted to sell it while it still had some value. With hindsight, after the problems I've had, IR, and DSE, I'm not sure I'd make the same decision.
I feel the same about my old V20. I chose to "upgrade" because I wanted a bigger screen. The V20 had perfect screen uniformity; and I mean perfect. In some regards I feel I've taken a step backwards and handed over £999 for the privilege.
I'm still not sure what the solution is. Some days I convince myself that the dirty screen effect isn't an issue, as I barely spot it. On other days, such as today, I end up watching programmes that show the issue up every time the camera pans.
I'd and ask for a refund, but that would mean living without a television, as every other TV currently available comes loaded with its own, equally distracting problems.
Hardware: Panasonic TX-P50VT65B (calibrated); Cambridge Audio Azur 651BD; Yamaha RX-A810; Teac PD-H600; PS3; B&W 601 & 600LCR (series 3); Q Acoustics QAV (rear)
Furniture and Accessories: BLOK Classix 3000 Oak AV Cabinet; Atacama Nexus 6 (atabite metal filled); 3D3 A1112
2nd hand Kuro or V20? " />
LOUNGE: Panasonic TX-P50GT50 (is poorly) / Panasonic DMP-BDT120 / Yamaha RX-A2020 / Dali Zensor 3 (front) / Dali Zensor Vokal (centre) / Mordaunt Short MS20i Pearl Edition (rear) / Q Acoustics1000Si (sub) / Roksan Radius 5.2 (is poorly) / Ortofon Super OM20 Cartridge / Sky HD / WD My Book Live 2TB / Seagate Expansion 2TB / Nintendo Wii / Tacima CS-929
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I've been having precisely those thoughts.
I might call John Lewis to discuss options (and perhaps to find out when 2013 models will be in stock). Who knows if they'll be any better, though.
Well, don't panic yet. Just be careful with the settings for a while. You could try switching to one of the Professional presets, as they have a luminance cap. You can also engage the Pixel Orbiter function here.
Incidentally, the horizontal lines you're describing are line bleed, which is a characteristic of plasma television technology. If you can stomach Noel Edmonds, try watching Deal or No Deal and you'll see this quite clearly. Line bleed isn't a problem as such and tends to be more evident on higher contrast settings. To me, the Professional presets are plenty bright enough, though you may need to adjust if you're used to watching LED televisions (I'm not sure if you're a long term plasma owner, so excuse me if I'm stating the obvious).
I checked out the line Bleed on Ripper Street credits last night on my 42" G20, its there also, guess I missed it because its a smaller screen, only noticed it becuase I was actually looking for it!
Lounge: Panasonic (faulty but 'within specification') 50GT50, Mico DVD-A980 (multi region), Yamaha RX-V596RDS, Mission M74, M7C and M7DS speakers, Sony CDPXE570, Nintendo WIi, Sony PS3, Humax FOXSAT-HDR,
Conservatory: Panasonic 42G20 and DMP-BD45EBK
Thanks Bernard, helps to hear from someone who's already made the change. Main reason for thinking if changing is wanting a larger screen (am thinking 55, or maybe even 65 if the wallet will bear the strain!); based on what your saying it wouldn't be worth the change of only going up to 55, if the bank account will handle a change to 65 then still have a dilemma on my hands. Good luck over the weekend rocket razor, let me know how you get on?
IR all gone now gents took long enough though. Annoyingly I have started to notice more rapid IR now, like cheking the lotto numbers, only on screen for 2 minutes, yet took another couple of minutes to disappear after I changed channel! Guess I'm just actively looking for it now!
I think if I had the choice and I already had a 50" Kuro I'd stick with it.
Best of luck
Glad to hear the IR has gone. Hopefully this will become less of an issue with time.
Interesting thread guys, makes a good read.
What I would say is that the IR problem rocketrazor has encountered with his GT50 is the exact same issue I had with my two Panny plasma with exactly the same game, Fifa seems really bad for IR because of the prominent white EA logos that are often displayed on a black background which is a big no no where plasma is concerned so i'm told. My G20 suffered from screen burn because of the EA logo in Fifa and unfortunately at that time Panasonic didn't even have a screen wipe option in the menus so the only option to try to get rid of it was the analogue snow method and a disc I bought with a selection of wipe patterns on it but nothing even shfited in slightly so in the end it was replaced after a battle.
My GT30 had some bad IR and the screen wipe did help but I was really reticent to even game on the screen at all and if I did I done so with the tv in (calibrated) Game mode with Pixel Orbiter on all the time but even then I got IR badly with both Fifa and Borderlands, in my opinion the Panasonic plasmas just aren't suited to extended gaming periods but for movies and tv they are truly excellent. I'm convinced gaming was at the heart of the issue I had with my GT30 with a really weird screen effect even after having the panel replaced.
If I were to buy a plasma tv again I would certainly want to have a dedicated LED tv for gaming which pretty much goes against the point for me as I would then need to create a gaming room in my bedroom adding yet more problems and cost as I would then need to add another surround system and find room for it all, I would much prefer to keep it in the living room and use my existing setup.
The idea of buying a 2nd hand Kuro has been something i've considered and even now a good one isn't cheap but I think is the better option than getting a GT50 if you intend on using it for gaming. What is going on with Panasonic plasmas that makes IR such an issue though, especially when it comes to gaming??
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Cheers Strapped. What happened to the settings you posted here? Good job I printed them off, will try them at the weekend!
Also noticed the DSE you guys have been discussing for the first time. Rather annoying, but then in the next shot I noticed just how good the TV is also. To be fair I had been changing the settings to reduce the IR when gaming and then watched MOTD highlights! Changed my settings back to default and was much harder to spot. One thing I would say is I found it far easier to spot on BBC's football than ITV's, both in HD
I deleted the settings as I wasn't sure they looked so great after watching a range of content, Just goes to show, copying settings isn't a route to image accuracy. Give them a go if you printed them out. The worst that can happen is they look odd and you return to your original settings.
Sorry to hear about the DSE. Pain, isn't it...
A little bit annoying, i'll find out more after the football tonight with it being the first night of football after noticing it!
Thanks for the update rocket, glad to hear its all cleared up. Sat here now looking at my kuro and asking myself "do I really want the stress of having my heart in my mouth every time I turn off the Xbox?". Honestly, don't think I do, so reckon I'll stick with it until Panasonic sort themselves out on the IR front!
Lounge: Panasonic TX-P60ZT65B (calibrated), Pioneer SC-LX75, Denon DPB-2012, Sky-HD1TB, PS4, Xbox 360, Apple-TV, Atacama Equinox AV stand, Monitor Audio Silver RX8, RXC, RX-FX, RXW-12. Kitchen: Pioneer XC-HM81, Monitor Audio Bronze BX2. Bedroom: Samsung UE37D6510, Samsung BD-C5900, Sky-HD, Pioneer N-50, Rotel RC-03 (pre-amp), Rotel RB-9708X (power-amp), Mordaunt-Short MS914
I preferred your original settings in Professional 1 actually Strapped, the greens look wrong in the Cinema settings, and I definitely don't want to take any risk with full contrast anyway.
If you want to own a plasma.....
1) Run it in properly on low contrast / low brightness settings - existing presets including THX must not be used until run in.
2) Do. Not. Use. It. For. Gaming. Ever. Get an LED if you want to play racing drivers.
Rubbish - I've had three plasmas, never run any of them in and used them all for gaming (mostly racing games in fact). I have three friends who have all done the same. I even accidently left a game running one night when I fell asleep - over 8 hours with the same static screen. There was some IR, but it cleared up in a matter of minutes (this was my old Panny which is still going strong in the spare room after 6 years now).
I'm not saying don't run them in - it's a personal choice and is probably sensible if you're worried / have seen issues before. However, just stating I've never seen the need and probably most people who ever bought a plasma TV have never done so either. It's certainly no guarantee that if you don't, you will get issues.
Judging by some of the posts I've seen over the last few years, there does seem to be some issues with some of the Pannys lately - best bet I'd say is to spend a few more pounds and buy from somewhere you trust (rather than flog-it&leg-it.com). Make it clear that you will be using the TV for gaming and if you have serious IR / screen burn issues, you will be bringing the screen back for a replacement. If they balk at the idea, then say thanks very much, I'll be off somewhere else.
IR back now, which is a real pain, having so many issues with it at present hence my other thread for what you guys think is ok and what is not. Considering contacting the store I purchased from soon to see what they say. I never had these issues on my G20!
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