Well I filled up at lunchtime having done 619.5 miles on 51.50 litres, which equates to 54.6mpg. That's about 60% motorway, 25% fast A-road (with long hills) and 15% country A-road, don't know how that relates to "combined" or extra urban etc...
There's nothing wrong with that.
Yup, I'm not going to complain, that's from a 160bhp engine as well, with 30 quid road tax (I'm actually looking forward to that running out at the end of this month)!
No signature worth mentioning...
Don't have a Reno but for comparisson...
My 2.2 diesel mk3 mondano (155bhp) gets about 34mpg on the short stop start stuck in traffic route to work and back (city), probably a few mpg down as its winter and the air con is on constantly with good use of the heated screens when we had all the snow and freezing temps.
On a mixed run it does about 45mpg, well at least that is what the trip computer states anyway. Have found out that it is more economical to be in 5th gear at 60mph than it is in 6th gear. It will drive ok in 6th gear at that speed but it is just below the start of the power band at about 1500rpm.
Biggest suprise for me was a trip to the NEC the other year crusing along at "motorway" speeds where it returned 56mpg. For a big ish familly car I think that was pretty decent.
Must admit it did take a bit of getting used to as this is my first diesel and is suprisingly pokey for a big car, not that it helps the mpg's if you get a bit carried away pulling away from the boy racers
Thank you for taking the trouble........interesting about the 5th gear @ 60mph being more economical.
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Yeh was a bit suprising for me as well as you would think 6th gear would be better as you are doing lower revs but it is just below where the turbo kicks in, I don't really use 6th gear now unless I am doing almost 70mph.
My car seems happier if you drive it just above the where the turbo kicks in (about 1500rpm) and is probably most economical between say 1500 to just over 2000rpm ish. I havn't done any official testing but it seems to pull like a train from about 2200rpm which is probably where the maximum boost kicks in. I usually change gear at about 2000rpm if I am trying to save a bit of fuel.
Might be worth checking the tyre pressures as well as my front tryes where about 5psi down from the recommended pressure when I bought it (private sale) which knocked a few mpg's off.
My Mazda has the same lump as your Mondeo, I found the same as you. I only pick 6th for 70+, I find it revs too low for single carriageways. I tend to sit around 2k revs. It has returned 55mpg in the past on a run from Brighton to Bristol doing this.
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At the risk of stating the obvious, the key to imrpoved MPG with a turbocharged engine, petrol or diesel, is trying to keep it off-boost - ie, limit the amount of time the turbo is active.
For example, during acceleration from standstill, use light throttle and rev to 2000rpm, then change up; for a petrol turbo, it's 2500rpm.
As mentioned, it's best to let a turbodiesel cruise at 2000-2200rpm. Any lower, and you're actually triggering the turbo to compensate for the lack of power being produced by RPM, thus the ECU summons a more combustible fuel / air mix for greater torque, which requires the turbo.
Also, look after your engine's turbo, they can fail at 30k miles if abused; turbo replacement is pricey. Correct warm-up and cool-down are vital.
So, when the engine is cold, don't floor it and / or rev above 2500rpm in a diesel, 3000 in a petrol; drive as such for 8 mins in summer, 10-12 in winter, before giving it full beans.
And after a 'spirited' A / B-road workout or prolonged 'press on' motorway drving, don't cut the engine as soon as you pull-up at home or at a motorway services - the turbo itself revs to 20,000rpm, so it'll be red hot, literally - let the engine idle for 60-90 secs, which allows the circulating oil to act as a coolant, before switch off.
If treated with mechanincal sympathy, the turbo can last 300k miles / the lifetime of the car, assuming the car's standard service intervals / oil changes are adhered to.
Thank you for your insight.
I didn't do any of that and my last car (9-3 1.9TiD 150) had 175k miles on it when I traded it in, the engine and turbo were as good as the day I bought it, the only reason I got rid was due to an electronics failure in the throttle circuit. Mind you I never drive anywhere at "full beans" though, doing 1000 miles a week I can't waste fuel like that anymore.
WRT keeping at 2000rpm, the new car now tells you to change up if you stay anywhere near 2000rpm for more than a few seconds, ie at about 54mph in 5th it'll tell you to change up, that drops it to just under 1500rpm. Mind you this one's a twin turbo and I think the smaller turbo cuts in at much lower revs than the older single turbo did (that one was at about 1750rpm).
Eco Safe driving is the way to get the most from you tank of fuel - check tyres are at correct PSI, remove any unnecessary weight from the car and take an advanced driving course ( if you haven't already) as this can make massive savings, eg, never stop if you dont have to, let the car slow early and roll until you can move off at junctions, traffic lights etc. It's using the 3 pedals that uses the fuel and the more you use them, eg gear changes, braking, and applying throttle, the more fuel you burn.
Over an average year, say 10K miles you can save £100's
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I don't recognise any of the above, but my car is an enigma. It's at its happiest at around 3-5k RPM. And although the specs say it isn't the most economical car around, I put far less petrol per week than the ma-in-law does in her Peugeot 307 - and I do far more miles than her.
I always believe that every car, like matching hi-fi components, has its sweet spot - this will, obviously, vary from car to car.
Don't really take much notice of lab/test track specs. It doesn't, imo, represent ordinary driving, weather, load, fluctuating tyre pressures etc. etc.
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