Seriously Hacked Off
As above....... Went to switch me gear on....CDP powered up and all ok, Power amp on and in standby mode..... then went to power the amp into the ON position, I herd a clic and the standby light went out, changed the fuse in the plug to no avail...no power getting through, so i pulled the amp out to see if any internal fuses had blow....none to be seen, so i followed the cables from the plug end of the amp to the 1st port of call....they terminated into a small transformer type thing maybe a regulator that had writen on it 115v.
Now i am really hacked off, as the guy that sold this to me didnt state that it had not been modded for 240v...whether he knew or not is debatable....yet the amp has been working for around 80 hrs of play time since i purchased it..... As the chap that sold this to me is on this forum I would like you to get in touch if possible as i know you had this amp imported from the US....... Just really hacked off as the party i was gonna have for new year is now gonna have to be cancelled due to no amp.
Also any clues as to what other damage might have been caused or would it just be this part.
Anyone that might be able to guide me in the right direction to get this fixed will deffo be on my Chrimbo card list for next year.
Thanks in advance
Now i am really hacked off, as the guy that sold this to me didnt state that it had not been modded for 240v...whether he knew or not is debatable....yet the amp has been working for around 80 hrs of play time since i purchased it
I wouldn't expect it to work fullstop, never mind 80 hours, if it was designed for 115v use.
''I wouldn't expect it to work fullstop, never mind 80 hours, if it was designed for 115v use.''
Thats what I thought, but on opening the lid...that is what i saw writen on the top of a small transformer and have presumed this is the reason its gone pop!
A loan of an amp or an electronics wizard with a shed full of spare parts and a hot iron might do for starters 
So what mains plug did it come with? If it is a standard three-pin MK then it's a reasonable expectation that it's a 240V unit. Also, isn't there a sticker on the back or the base, stating what the voltage and frequency is?
Have you got a hifi repair guy / bofin who could call ?. Google something *, maybe you will get an answer quicker than waiting around on here. Wish I could help Mr B but out of my league Im afraid. Bit of a so and so to say the least mind. Would be good if the guy who flogged it to you would get in touch , but is that likely to happen ?.
* by this I meant Google hifi repairs.
So what mains plug did it come with? If it is a standard three-pin MK then it's a reasonable expectation that it's a 240V unit. Also, isn't there a sticker on the back or the base, stating what the voltage and frequency is?
I didnt come with a mains lead and on the back it has a sticker saying 220-240v @ 50 Hz, yet inside it says 115v - 200mA
So what mains plug did it come with? If it is a standard three-pin MK then it's a reasonable expectation that it's a 240V unit. Also, isn't there a sticker on the back or the base, stating what the voltage and frequency is?
So what mains plug did it come with? If it is a standard three-pin MK then it's a reasonable expectation that it's a 240V unit. Also, isn't there a sticker on the back or the base, stating what the voltage and frequency is?
Thanks for the offer T Man but unfortunately im on the south coast nr Brighton so the trip would take ages lol....I used to be a sparks myself (28yrs) but got hacked off with chasing walls, moving furniture and lifting cookers with 10 yrs of fat underneth them lol.... Having a fetish for cable i decided to work for a cable manufacturers...design and selling..... but thats another story........ have sent a mail to a local electronics shop and hope to get a reply tomorrow....if alll else fails i'll pop into Audio Note factory and see if they can help....but it deffo looks like the shop in the US didnt do the convesion to 220-240v....but goes to show the 115v tranny is robust enough to take 240 for such a long time
Does the IEC "kettle" input have a voltage switch? TBH, running for 80 hours at double the rated voltage sounds unlikely.
A lot of electronics are just failing as the 'greens' forced the use of lead-free solder which greatly increased dry-joints and fracturing of connections.
Does the IEC "kettle" input have a voltage switch? TBH, running for 80 hours at double the rated voltage sounds unlikely.
A lot of electronics are just failing as the 'greens' forced the use of lead-free solder which greatly increased dry-joints and fracturing of connections.
Nope! the IEC lead is an after market Belden cable........ Think i might take a couple of pics later, and if i can..post them here
Plus as i said before.....this was originaly imported from the US, so i dont think the 'Greens' have a say in that lol
Is there a fuse in the IEC socket?
Is there a fuse in the IEC socket?
I changed the fuse plug end, would there be one amp end? Arrr! cant be that because i tried using the lead from my CDP and it still wouldnt light up.
...so i pulled the amp out to see if any internal fuses had blow....none to be seen...
There should be a 3.15 amp fast blow fuse internally?
...so i pulled the amp out to see if any internal fuses had blow....none to be seen...
There should be a 3.15 amp fast blow fuse internally?
Im pretty sure i saw no fuses inline before the transformer......... but i think i will have another look just incase my eyes are playing tricks....can i post pics on here using my 'Photobucket' link?
I take it that when you say "Less Is More", it wasn't exactly what you had in mind!
I hope you get it sorted out to your satisfaction; but other than making the above smart remark, I can't help.
Edit. Trying to give you a wry smile.....and not taking the Mick.
"Everything has been said before, but since nobody listens we have to keep going back and beginning all over again." André Gide