Thanks for the tips. I will send it of to fidelity as not confident with a soldering iron. I want the level 1 upgrade plus changing phono sockets as stock ones are rubbish , which ones should I go for? Also mains cable too
As per my question above...still wondering what improvement you think you're paying for if you intend to continue using the external DAC? I'm not having a pop, I'm trying to save you money...
Main system: Mac Mini 2011 > HRT II+ DAC • Cyrus 2 & PSX • Cyrus tuner • MS 10i speakers [on loan]
Also cluttering-up the place: Thorens TD160 (no cart) • Marantz CD 63 mkII KI & PM66 KI • Technics SL-P777 • Nakamichi DR-1
Hello Major. I am having some upgrades done on my amps and CD player with Fidelity Audio and will post the results over the next few weeks. In the meantime I thought I'de share this short article about modding in general. I think it explains things quite well and gives an idea of how modifying internal parts can help and why.
Enjoy the music!
Well, they do 'transport only' mods as well, so perhaps that would be a more suitable choice if an external DAC is to be used.
Mac mini > AVI ADM9Ts
Indeed...no point paying for something that's not going to get used.
Think carefully what you're buying if you only intend to use it as a transport.
...and you'd be lucky to find a SA7001-KI kicking around. There's a few but nothing like as many as the CD63-KI.
The bay had one this morning. Besides, it was more of an example of what more modern/newer equipment can be had for the money.
Indeed, and there's two currently. One being the stock, non-KI model. There are currently 17 CD63-KI Mk II models on Ebay...!
Onkyo TX-NR818 / Tannoy Revolution DC4 (bi-amped)
AVI Laboratory Series CD Player
I'm sorry, missed your point.
It's alright, it doesn't need explaining.
Hi I replaced mine RCA sockets with Neutrik NYS367. Gold-plated and fit easily to the chassis.
You should mod your player, you won't regret it. I am in the process of modding my 15 year old CD63 KI. I have already swapped diodes and some critical capacitors in various stages. My player has taken a leap forward in performance. Next on agenda is replacing op-amps for much better ones and adding low jitter clock.
Marantz CD-63 MkII KI Signature / Marantz PM4001 / Paradigm Atom Monitor v6 / Qed Qunex / Qed Silver Anniversary XT / Sennheiser HD558
Trust me you will be amazed by the BIG improvement in SQ when you have done all the mods
I suggest you change the stock transformer with a much bigger capacity and there will be noticeable improvement in performance. Then change the smoothing caps for the transformers and other critical caps for the servo and opamps. Change the diodes, disable the HDAM and headphone circuit, disable the stock muting circuit and replace it with relay operated muting circuit, change the opamps to 4562HA or diccrete opamps like Burson, change the low jitter clocks for the servo (8.xx Mhz), DAC and decoder (16.xx Mhz), use very low noise regulators supplying independent power to the ICs, decoder and DAC etc. Put damping pads on the CDP case.
Enjoying music from a dream hi-fi system in a well treated room.
I have to strongly disagree with what you guys are syaing about these mods. The implication is that manufacturers are releasing substandard equipment that amateurs can simply tweak with a variety of electronic components to create a substantially better item. Any changes in sound presentation are more likely going to be strongly subject to bias, notwithstanding the fact that differences between digital components are relatively small in the first place.
By all means spend your money as you wish, but if I were to be spending the sort of money mentioned, I'd like to see some actual before and after measurements of the performance of the equipment, such as frequency response and distortion figures/graphs.
Also important, is the fact that the sums of money involved can buy some very capable equipment that above all else, are new and have warranties.
Anyway, rant over, I just don't like seeing people being ripped off.
I'm curious to know what mods you are having done to your Alpha equipment.
I don't think I can go along with you. My personal experience is that the CD63 CDP has GREAT improvements after changing with better components. In modding the CD63 we are not saying changing the original circuit design, what we have done is just changing the poor components with better quality ones and to reduce the noise level and increase the stability of the power supply and use better clocks etc. The circuit design has never been touched. My ear and brain can tell me that there is a distinct difference and it is not a bias view. I have asked my friends to compare my modded CD63 with my Leema Antila II and everyone was amazed and could not believe the SQ of the CD63 and eventually I sold the Antila II in eBay. In my case the material cost of the toroidal transformers, the 2 low jitter clocks, the smoothing caps and other critical caps as well as a number of very low noise voltage regulators and discrete opamps etc costed me more than £600 but I still hold the view that the money is well spent.
I can only agree with you that 3rd party modder is a bit overcharged but if you have the money there is no harm to use them. However I strongly recommend going the DIY path as it will cost you nothing other than the costs of electronic componemts.
You may wish to know that my CD63 was modded in a way which is more than Fidelity Audio's Level 3 and I recalled that the total time spent in such work is about 3 to 4 full days and you can calculate the cost of labour by a 3rd party modder.
Maybe go for the transport only option?
I'm curious to know how the sound has changed?
I would love to hear some opinions from people who have had this done before I decide . I am using the CD player with an rdac at the moment . I think the upgrade would improve things some what
If you use your CD 63 as a transport you will still hear improvements in SQ, in particular, you will notice that the bass is much extended and much tigther. It is because the servo has more stable power supply as FA uses a 50VA TX to drive the servo circuit. To further improve the SQ I would also suggest to replace the stock 8.xx Mhz clock with a very low jitter clock of much higher quality.
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