The A5 was not fitted with a magnetic cartridge EQ stage as standard. Purchaser would have to buy the optional internal phono stage as an extra.
Theres a big difference in turntable cartridges as well. Moving coil or moving magnet. The later may output sufficient voltage to drive the phono stage. But MC cartridges output far lower voltage, so a moving coil would require an EQ/Gain stage for definate. Or you would hear nothing!
Hope this helps you?
my turntable cartridge is MM and the NADPP2 pre amp is switched to MM so can i assume that it does not matter that my A5 does not have the optional internal phono stage ?
You can use a cheap 3.5mm to phono cable to connect the laptop or your mobile's headphone socket to the amp to test. Something like this:
Or spend a bit more if it's something you may want to continue with. Just remember to turn that volume down to zero before connecting!
Just a left-field thought in case you bought the pre-amp used, I assume it came with the PSU? Although if you've tried several it's unlikely to be that.
I would never put my amp on full volume as it will probably damage the speakers or the amp due to clipping. Its possible/probable they are already damaged.
From what I understand, at around 10-11 o clock position most amps are producing most of their power. If you turn the vol up right past 12 o clock you will probably start getting clipping.
Have you checked that each driver is working on the speakers? Take the grills off and check each in turn. Are you only getting music from the tweeter and not main woofers?
Try the headphone output for volume to see if it is loud enough. Maybe your volume control is not working properly. Is there a lot of static noise when you move the vol. control? You could always try your speakers on a friends amp you know that works or a spare one?
Double check the speaker cable again and interconnects for tight fit. Make sure your not shorting out the cables between + and -.
Can you get a second opinion from a hifi user or friend you know.
I would forget about testing for the moment with the turntable as you'll have at least another amp etc to eliminate. Best to stick to sources for testing that you know work. e.g. TV, radio, MP3 or computer.
HiFi - Cambridge Audio 340C, Pioneer A30, Denon TU 260L, Dali Lektor 2.
As far as i am aware, you still need the internal phono stage in the A5 mate It will do the equalising and create the correct response curve etc. Best advice, give cambridge audio a quick call!
sogophonio11 wrote:As far as i am aware, you still need the internal phono stage in the A5 mate It will do the equalising and create the correct response curve etc.
As far as i am aware, you still need the internal phono stage in the A5 mate It will do the equalising and create the correct response curve etc.
Re the question on connecting your TV, have a look for a stereo phono (rca) output,should be a L and R. Take a phono lead and plug into a line level input, ie anything but the phono input on the Cambridge. You should get the TV output and you can then gauge the volume.
I notice you've tried different inputs (aux, tuner etc) and the problem remains. This doesn't necessarily mean the amp is okay, but it does mean the problem isn't limited to one input.
I'd assumed you had a MM cartridge as you'd swapped the stylus (which you can't do with a moving Coil) so guessed that wasn't a problem. If you'd switched to MC input on the NAD with an MM you'd have too much volume (but not in a good way)!
At this stage you can only try another source - like the TV. Please don't rush out and buy a new phono stage as some have recommended as this could be a waste of money until you've confirmed where the issue lies.
If you're unsure about connecting the TV what about a DVD player? That should have a L and R out.
Re-wording my post from page one which you either ignored or missed, find something else to plug into your amp such as your computer, or your TV, iPod or whatever. You must have something knocking around you can plug in and try. Even just a mobile phone. And if that works, well it's not the amp/speakers so that's them ruled out. Like any other fault-finding mission, it's always just a process of elimination til you identify the bit that's 'broken'. It really is that simple! Good luck.