Not wanting to thread crash but…
I have bought some of the AudioQuest FLX stuff that is bi-wire — instead of linking the terminal posts with speaker cable I was thinking of combining the cables at the amp end and then using 4 banana plugs to plug in to each of the terminals on the back of the speaker — probably leaving the link bars in place.
If you bi-wire make sure you take the connector links off between the HF and LF
Marantz CD63 KI - Onkyo TX-8050 - Ruark Talisman II/Ruark Icon/Mission 752F/Wharfedale 9.1/JPW Sonata/Tannoy DC4
Rotel RCD865 - RTC850L/RB850 (pre/power)
WIth amateur electronics knowledge I am struggling to understand the difference — but I shall remove the links.
So are we agreeing that bi-wire is the same as removing link posts and joining with speaker cable?
Rega RP6 w/ Dynavector 10X5 & Gus's Subplatter & ME Technoweight & ME VTA adjuster | Rega DAC | Rega Brio-R | B&W 601 S3 | Rega Ear Mk2 | Grado SR60
Chord CrimsonPlus | Audioquest FLX/SLiP 14/4
Arcam rPAC | AKG K550
So you're complaining about how the thread might go, yet your post didn't actually answer any of the original questions... Ironic, don't you think?
Why not respond as the OP requested, and share YOUR experiences. It could prove useful to someone in the future. No one is right. No one is wrong. However if it might help someone, why not...
Wow that sounded sharp, it wasn't meant that way
Well said. It is nice to see a wire thread where everyone[?] is contributing without bagging everyone out. Excellent.
Apple Lossless - ATV3 - AVI ADM 40 also ATV3 into AVI ADM 9T [my wife's system]
and Grado SR80i
4. Black ravioli, never tried it. Messed about with iso-pads and the like under the amp, no difference whatsoever, and looked a mess after a while. Investing in a good solid stand helped.
I don't think under amps will make any difference but under a cd player may do.
Nor did I, but I don't own a CDP! Perhaps I should try suspending my laptop from the cieling on some elastic cords.
JRiver MC17 -> Cambridge Audio DACmagic+ -> Roksan Caspian M2 -> ProAc D18
Back in the day when NAD's 3020 was the budget fave, using the then trendy Mission Isoplat [a bit of board with sorbothane feet (like squash balls halved)] made a big difference. We sold dozens then. The transformer would vibrate in tune with loud passages and the Isoplat seemed to drain that away, leaving clearer sound. I was not a trick demonstrater; they almost sold themselves, at about 20% of the cost of the amp, IIRC.
Things are less likely to respond so well these days, but the right support can make a surprising difference, even to amps. Tube devices are obviously beneficiaries.
Hi-Fi: Krell KAV-300cd, Michell TecnoDec/RB250/Grado Prestige Black1, KAV-300i amp, Transparent balanced interconnects and bi-wire to Sonus faber Concerto grand piano speakers, Nakamichi ZX-7 cassette deck, Logitech Squeezebox Touch, Hitachi FT-5500 and Sony S570ES tuners, BCD Engineering stand, RA Powerlink, Chord powerchord, Grado SR60i cans.
AV: Sony Bravia KDL-32EX503 telly, BDP-S370 player with QED HDMI. Currently unused: Denon AVR-1705, DVD-1710, KEF KHT1005.2
OK thanks for the insight, have you tried tyre inner tubes, plyboard and marbles that is supposed to be even better and cheaper?
No, because I have a great stand that does all I need, and an old Target table for occasional duties when trying something new. But I'd certainly encourage low-cost experimentation, as it will work in some situations. I still think set-up is key to any decent system, often at almost no cost except time and patience..
Arguably, you would do better to leave the links in place.
This is not usually the forum for reasoned debate, but here goes:
Cables are linear components, double the voltage, you double the current. There is no interaction between different circuits sharing the same cable. In the case of a speaker with two drivers and a crossover, as far as an AC signal is concerned, there are two circuits, one LF circuit though the crossover to the woofer, another HF circuit through the crossover to the tweeter. A LF signal doesn't 'see' the HF circuit and a HF signal doesn't 'see' the LF circuit. Its as if there were two separate wires.
So if we now biwire, each cable is either carrying the LF or HF, so no difference to the single wire situation - except at the crossover point when both drivers are being driven and both cables conducting. So by bi wiring, we have introduced a (albeit very small) frequency lift at the crossover point as in comparison to the single wire setup, we now have two conductors in parallel.
By leaving the jumper in place, you halve the resitance of the speaker cables (always a good thing) without introducing any crossover effects.
I have not seen any engineering analysis on why bi wiring brings any benefits.
To lob tuppence into the pot, I changed from the original Atlas Silver (a bit toppy) to QED Revelation a couple of years back.
The improvement was staggering, and I can't see myself changing again anytime soon...
Arcam CD72, Marantz PM6004, Dali Zensor 3, via Chord Crimson and QED Revelation. Virgin HD Tivo, Sony BDP370, LG 42" FHD telly.
PC- EvilEdna2: Pimped, overclocked hi-spec i5 2500K, . Audio Alchemy DDEv1, Rotel RA935BX, Mission 761I on housebricks with QED Revelation, which cost more than the dac, amp and speakers put together...
Now I have my digital source connected with both a (cheap) optical cable and a (somewhat pricier) coax cable, and I'd swear the coax has a fuller warmer sound and the optical has a tighter more open sound...
Dangerous territory, I know, but probably not as dangerous as trying to rope my wife into blind testing this.
Now I wonder what a pricier optical cable or different coax cable would do
Observe the signature in its natural habitat.
Well I have my new Audioquest 14/4 speaker cables set up like this now — with jumpers left in place — it sounds great.
(admittedly, haven't tried it without yet)
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