Opinions will always be divided, however ALWAYS without exception try different cables in a totally blind test before deciding whether they make a difference or not. (Human beings are very poor at judging differences when they can see what is going on)
The mains in this country is not as good as some people believe, with the voltage going up and down at different times of the day, as well as mains spikes caused by electrical equipment, therefore a surge protector is a worthwhile addition as it takes the strain off the equipment’s own power supply thus prolonging its life span. (Most surge protectors also tend to be of better quality then a standard block)
A solid base is always beneficial for audio equipment to perform at its best.
NOTE I have not yet come across anybody that can identify any differences in quality cables when done as a blind test. (And this includes those that make and produce the music that you listen to)
1. I upgraded to jumpers made of the same cable (Carnival Silver Plus) on my RS6's, made a slight (but cost-effective) improvement in separation and a bit better in the low end, before bi-amping which made a significant noticable improvement! (Even though I've heard so many say passive bi-amping is a waste of time)
2. Haven't tried this yet - on my list of things to do but not in a hurry (someone convince me it will make a noticable difference for the cost compared to other upgrades?)
3. Haven't got anything more than a sub-£20 surge protector and probably won't bother upgrading
4. Haven't tried any of this, still have my amp sitting on the disc player. Will get a dedicated rack at some point, waiting to get a dedicated 2channel amp & cd player (pearl lites probably) to add first.
5. Noticed better quality & quantity in bass in particular when I upgraded from QED Performance 2 (bought for £2 to Chord Cobra 3 (£63). Likewise, noticed a massive improvement all round when I upgraded from an old budget cable to the QED P2 in my 2nd system.
6. Noticed a huge difference in all respects on my office hifi when I replaced some budget 16AWG speaker wire (think it was £1.50m) with Chord Carnival Silver Plus (& matching jumpers). The whole sound transformed; soundstage opened up and there's such clarity and depth compared to the previous, and much punchier bass. And that's with really cheap (but very cheerful) speakers (Eltax's Monitor III). I was a bit of a cable cynic before making this switch. Haven't tried my RS6's with any other cable yet to compare.
Living Room: Samsung UE40EH6030 | Marantz PM-KI Pearl Lite, NR1403, UD5007, NA7004 | iMac | PS3 | Sky+ HD | MA RS6 | Chord Carnival Silver Plus, Cobra Plus, Crimson Plus, Silver Plus HDMIs
Office: Marantz PM6010 KI & CD6000 KI, ST6000 | Pioneer PDR-609 | Technics SL1210 Mk2 | Eltax Monitor 3 | QED Performance 2, Chord Cobra 3, Carnival Silver Plus
Other: Vita Audio r4
Has anyone tried the Clearer Audio Copper-Line Alpha One mains cable, it gets a 5 star WHF review and is about £30, or any of there other products.
Now i have listen to the Audiquesxt FLX SLip 14/4 for many hours and it sounds more right then Qed Original, more open and no upper midrange softness, but still soft/smooth
Qed Original is an okay cable, Audioquest FLX SLiP 14/4 is a good (better) cable
Presonus 22vsl soundcard, Tc electronic level pilot and Yamaha HS8 with 40 mm foam between the speakers and my desk
I have tried a range of interconnects up to Russ Andrews Silver streak at £210 and could not hear any difference from bespoke length pro audio interconnects I had made for me for a tenth of the cost.
I thought about making my own speaker cables but Chord carnival are as cheap as diy and professional terminations look nice. I have tried Kimber 8vs and again could hear no advantage over the Chord which are about a quarter of the price of the 8vs.
Expensive mains cables don't work for me either.
Now speakers and amps thats a different matter...
Sonos Connect, Cyrus DAC XP Signature with PSX-R
Cyrus Mono X 300 Signature, Wilmslow Phoenix with Bass Extenders.
My similar thread took around 10 posts before going pear shaped as one of yr respondants seems to wish to emulate. I found yr post interesting and would be interested to know abt yr room etc. Carpet? Floors etc. Thanks for sharing yr experience and hopefully similar minded folk will add their experience without the usual nonsense. Personally I have yet to appreciate biamping, wiring & speaker 'platforms' but I admit that I rarely conduct any 'tests' and I also wonder if my hearing is good enough to differentiate. I am always open to suggestion however so I welcome reports of constructive, subjwctive experience. Cheers
PS What source do you usw for reference?
Well I hope too that people share their experiences. My room is atm untreated with no carpets, suspended wooden floors. I did have acoustic panels briefly but decided they were too ugly to live with and it turned out that my room was quite unreflective. My source is denon 720ae connected to dacmagic, marantz 6025 tt or marantz cd 63 ki. Mostly entry level you see, but good ones that I haven't yet felt the need to upgrade.
Denon DNP-720AE network streamer, Mordaunt Short Mezzo 6, Cayin A-55 T, Technics-SLQ210, Denon DP-29F turntable, 540p, Dac-magic, Marantz 5004CD and 6025 Turntable, Mac ,Pure AV interconnects, QED Revelation speaker cables, QED Performance interconnects.
Akg K702, Grado SR60i, UE Triple-fi, Musical Fidelity X-cans, HRT Music Streamer 2+
1) Replacing speaker links with speaker cables.
I just use the bare wire to connect to my amp, never used anything other, so I cannot comment...
2) Mains Cables.
Tried it once, didn't hear any differences.
3) Mains Blocks.
Never tried it, never going to.
4) Black Ravioli and the likes.
Years ago I put a some wood under my cd players, because it may add some warmth, this is complete rubbish I know, but I kept the wood. I don't believe in putting spikes under speakers as well.
Tried several, stuck with some nice looking Wireworld OASIS 5 interconnects, because they look far better than those cheap free ones you get, but they don't make any differences as far as I'm concerned
6) Speaker cables.
Never tried anything other than the plain very thick copper (Monitor Audio?) cables I got.
I bought a Chord Crimson 2 interconnect to replace a cable that I purchased in the mid 90's (which was roughly around the same price) but didn't really hear any difference at all.
Later I went from bi-wiring to bi-amping, don't ask me to explain it but the improvment was amazing!
Would like to try experiment with speaker cables when the ATC's arrive and possibly a mains conditioner at some point.
Enjoy the music!
1. Makes no differences to my ears, with different speakers and amp combinations over the years
2. Made no difference to any system I've owned. I use the second Tacima as an extension for my iron.
3. mains cable on a Cyrus CD6SE made no discernable difference to the standard kettel lead (It was a fairly modest upgrade, cost around £40 for the Gold lead - can't even recall the maker but it was a WHF recommended product)
4. Black ravioli, never tried it. Messed about with iso-pads and the like under the amp, no difference whatsoever, and looked a mess after a while. Investing in a good solid stand helped.
5. Interconnects, very small differences, bit like CDA compared to Hi Res audio (as in sometimes it's imposible to detect differences)
Speaker cables, yes I can hear diferences in the ones I have tried, but only budget cables, and the differences again are relatively small. I've never got round to trying really expensive cables, and would rather spend the money on better equipment or more music.
JRiver MC17 -> Cambridge Audio DACmagic+ -> Roksan Caspian M2 -> ProAc D18
This discussion I am sure will go the way of every previous one like it. Bit by bit each person drops out with the realization that no dialogue (hearing and speaking) is actually taking place. Eventually the thread ends without a sound.
There actually is no difference between those who hear difference and those who don't. Each person hears what they hear. I have no doubt that those who don't hear a difference don't hear a difference. Nor do I doubt that those who hear a difference hear a difference.
The destruction of dialogue comes from those who don't accept that other are telling their experience as truthfully as they are themselves. i.e. if one hears difference but doesn't accept/ believe that others don't hear difference; or if one doesn't hear a difference, but won't accept that other do hear difference....
Rega Brio-R integrated amp, Rega Apollo-R cd player, Tellurium Q Green speaker cables, Tellurium Q Black interconnects, Rega Isis/Osiris mains power cables, KEF LS50 speakers.
So you're complaining about how the thread might go, yet your post didn't actually answer any of the original questions... Ironic, don't you think?
Why not respond as the OP requested, and share YOUR experiences. It could prove useful to someone in the future. No one is right. No one is wrong. However if it might help someone, why not...
Wow that sounded sharp, it wasn't meant that way
Marantz CD63 KI - Onkyo TX-8050 - Ruark Talisman II/Ruark Icon/Mission 752F/Wharfedale 9.1/JPW Sonata/Tannoy DC4
Rotel RCD865 - RTC850L/RB850 (pre/power)
The two changes I found which are not system dependent are replacing speaker jumpers with proper speaker cables and plugging everything into a good mains regenerator (in my case, the PS Audio P-10). The rest - interconnects, stabilisers & speaker cables - can improve sound quality but results would vary depending on the system.
Not wanting to thread crash but…
I have bought some of the AudioQuest FLX stuff that is bi-wire — instead of linking the terminal posts with speaker cable I was thinking of combining the cables at the amp end and then using 4 banana plugs to plug in to each of the terminals on the back of the speaker — probably leaving the link bars in place.
Rega RP6 w/ Dynavector 10X5 & Gus's Subplatter & ME Technoweight & ME VTA adjuster | Rega DAC | Rega Brio-R | B&W 601 S3 | Rega Ear Mk2 | Grado SR60
Chord CrimsonPlus | Audioquest FLX/SLiP 14/4
Arcam rPAC | AKG K550
I don't think under amps will make any difference but under a cd player may do.
No I don't think that is a good idea, best to remove the link otherwise it will cause crossover problems.
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