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Overdose's picture
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RE: bi-amping

Bi-amping is only of benefit if your current amplifier struggles to properly control your speakers at the volumes you listen at. Passive bi-amping also doesn't bypass the internal speaker crossover so the gains in this area are also minimal to non existant. The best way to bi-amp is to go active.

In your situation, if you think that your current amp is not enough, then a better and more powerfil integrated might be the best way forward, something like the MF A5? You could also see if you can borrow a pro audio poweramp and see what that sounds like.

Anyone who has reaped benefits from passive bi-amping has had an amplifier not up to the job or no benefit would have been realised.

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RE: bi-amping

Overdose wrote:

Bi-amping is only of benefit if your current amplifier struggles to properly control your speakers at the volumes you listen at. Passive bi-amping also doesn't bypass the internal speaker crossover so the gains in this area are also minimal to non existant. The best way to bi-amp is to go active.

In your situation, if you think that your current amp is not enough, then a better and more powerfil integrated might be the best way forward, something like the MF A5? You could also see if you can borrow a pro audio poweramp and see what that sounds like.

Anyone who has reaped benefits from passive bi-amping has had an amplifier not up to the job or no benefit would have been realised.

thanks for your advice. i have already ordered the power amp and cant cancel it. will do some trial, if bi-amping doesnt work for me then i will just use the power amp to drive both HF and LF. at the moment my intergrated amp output is 125wpc if i bi-amped will output 250wpc? correct me if im wrong but im sure there will be some improvement with 250wpc output?

hifi room: project rpm 9.1, sumiko blue point no.2, project box II phono amp, project speedbox II se, roksan kandy k2 cd player, kandy k2  intergrated amp, kandy k2 power amp, musical fidelity m1 dac,  sonus faber venere 3.0.

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RE: bi-amping

I biamped my speakers using the additional discrete power amps in my Onkyo.  Delighted with the results.

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RE: bi-amping

im confuse now. some people say there will be changes, some say minor changes and some say no changes at all. the best is to judge this myself and will let u guys know the results. the amp should be arriving in 1 to 2 weeks time hopefully.

hifi room: project rpm 9.1, sumiko blue point no.2, project box II phono amp, project speedbox II se, roksan kandy k2 cd player, kandy k2  intergrated amp, kandy k2 power amp, musical fidelity m1 dac,  sonus faber venere 3.0.

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RE: bi-amping

sonic21 wrote:

im confuse now. some people say there will be changes, some say minor changes and some say no changes at all. the best is to judge this myself and will let u guys know the results. the amp should be arriving in 1 to 2 weeks time hopefully.

 

+1 to that... 

that is the best way... If u can notice the different and like it... Then keep it... If not, just go back to non bi-amp... Do let us know how u get on with it..

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RE: bi-amping

will do El Hefe.

hifi room: project rpm 9.1, sumiko blue point no.2, project box II phono amp, project speedbox II se, roksan kandy k2 cd player, kandy k2  intergrated amp, kandy k2 power amp, musical fidelity m1 dac,  sonus faber venere 3.0.

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RE: bi-amping

In a conventional speaker the crossover is as one, which means the upper and lower will interact with each other, (The better the design of the crossover the less interaction) by separating the upper and lower (Bi- amping) you remove this interaction thus allowing the speaker to perform better. (How much will be determined by how good the crossover was in the first place)

Bi amping does not double your power (Unless the additional amp has double the power of the first) which will always remain the same, however it will put less strain on the power supplies in the amps which should also improve performance. (How much of an improvement will be determined by how good the power supplies are in the amps)

You will always (Without exception) notice a difference in the sound when you bi-amp, but only you will be able to decide if it does what you want.

Active speakers give ultimate control as everything is integrated and designed to work together, however they are more expensive and need connection via balanced connectors for best performance, (Which as most Hi Fi amps don’t have them means you will not be getting the best from them) it also means more mains cables running around the place which in most domestic installations is a no from the boss.

Hope this helps

Bill

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RE: bi-amping

abacus wrote:

In a conventional speaker the crossover is as one, which means the upper and lower will interact with each other, (The better the design of the crossover the less interaction) by separating the upper and lower (Bi- amping) you remove this interaction thus allowing the speaker to perform better. (How much will be determined by how good the crossover was in the first place)

Bi amping does not double your power (Unless the additional amp has double the power of the first) which will always remain the same, however it will put less strain on the power supplies in the amps which should also improve performance. (How much of an improvement will be determined by how good the power supplies are in the amps)

You will always (Without exception) notice a difference in the sound when you bi-amp, but only you will be able to decide if it does what you want.

Active speakers give ultimate control as everything is integrated and designed to work together, however they are more expensive and need connection via balanced connectors for best performance, (Which as most Hi Fi amps don’t have them means you will not be getting the best from them) it also means more mains cables running around the place which in most domestic installations is a no from the boss.

Hope this helps

Bill

noted, tks again Bill. this helps.

hifi room: project rpm 9.1, sumiko blue point no.2, project box II phono amp, project speedbox II se, roksan kandy k2 cd player, kandy k2  intergrated amp, kandy k2 power amp, musical fidelity m1 dac,  sonus faber venere 3.0.

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RE: bi-amping

Anyone wanting to 'bi-amp' would do well to read and try to understand paragraph 5 of the information in THIS article.

Whatever you decide to do, do it properly and do it once, or it will hit you in the wallet.

El Hefe's picture
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RE: bi-amping

Overdose wrote:

Anyone wanting to 'bi-amp' would do well to read and try to understand paragraph 5 of the information in THIS article.

Whatever you decide to do, do it properly and do it once, or it will hit you in the wallet.

 

interesting paragraph... In general, I do agree with it... Hence, I too always use the word 'different' sound rather than improved sound... 

however, its when there is such a catch phrase ...'In general, it is likely that the improvement - assuming there is an actual improvement of course - will be small...' People will go.....aaahh there might be a benefit to passive bi-amp... Lets try it :)... 

It might be better just to state 'NO IMPROVEMENT' ... No punt intended here...


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RE: bi-amping

hi guys! im back. just got my roksan kandy k2 power amp yesterday. bi-amped it, the hi's and the mid's driven by the kandy k2 intergrated and the lows by the power amp. the power amp is new so just burn-in bout 12hrs, already i can hear better imaging on the voice of nah youn san 'moondog' song. for those who never heard of her, she's a korean contemporary jazz singer. also noticed more precise bass and better dynamics. now it has only been 12hrs since first played. im a believer in burn-in period, hopefully will get even better lows after 100hrs or so. at the moment im happy with bi-amping and will stick to it. will be back for somemore comments after 100hrs of burn-in. cheers guys!

hifi room: project rpm 9.1, sumiko blue point no.2, project box II phono amp, project speedbox II se, roksan kandy k2 cd player, kandy k2  intergrated amp, kandy k2 power amp, musical fidelity m1 dac,  sonus faber venere 3.0.

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