HELP!!! Speaker Cables for Monitor Audio RS8 system
Hi guys, I am about to start the same project on my s8's, I will be applying VISHAY bypass do I connect it to the + and - of the Claritycaps that I'll be using.
I.E use the VISHAY's to bridge the SA's pins when I solder the Claritycaps to my board.
Kind regards
john
Yes, as you describe.
I called MA to try and get them to send me a copy of the cross-over wiring diagram and they would not - maybe they were too lazy. I spoke to MA in Canada as I live in the US. If anyone manages to get one can you please post it on this forum?
Thanks
Trevor (or anyone else)
How would the sound be affected if I used a 5.6 uf cap instead of the 6.8uf that you used in your mod?
thanks
Happy New Year to everybody.
I will dig my wiring diagram out, you might have to wait a few days though.
Personally I would not deviate off the values I have used. Use the following table to calculate the cross over filters.
www.apicsllc.com/apics/Misc/filter2.html
Hope that helps
Hi guys,
I recently bought a home theatre system with the RS8's at the front. I was searching the net for ways to reduce the harshness (overbrightness) of the top end of the RS8's and came across this forum. Having read this thread, I must admit that I am confused as to the different ways to upgrade the crossover capacitors. There is mention of the Clarity Cap and Mundorf capacitors and the Vishay bypasses. Are these different levels of upgrades? Are we always talking about upgrading the 2 capacitors per speaker, or can one upgrade more components?
Basically, I find my RS8's too bright. What would be the best way to reduce this brightness? (Actually, they are too bright only when listening to CDs - with movies they sound great) Would the Clarity Cap SA do the job? Are there capacitors that would do an overall better job?
Thank you
Trevor, you have inspired me to upgrade the crossovers in my RS8's and RSLCR. If you don't mind, I'd lke to confirm with you the components (and their values) you recommend. The codes in brackets are order codes from www.hificollective.co.uk.
Capacitors:
Per RS8:
Clarity Cap SA, 1 x 3.9 uF (CCSA230)
Clarity Cap SA , 1 x 6.8 uF (CCSA300) - How come you did not use a 6.2uF cap as it is closer to the original value of 6uF?
Coils:
L2 coils: Mundorf M-Coil Aronit-core coils (BA140)
L3/L4 coils: Mundorf Foil M-Coil (CFC-14)
Resistors:
Which one for the RS8's:
Mundorf M-Resist Supreme, 1.8 Ohm, 20 Watts (MRES20-040), or
Duelund Graphite Silver, 1.8 Ohm, 10 Watts (DUELR-040)
Probably would not be much difference, would there?
Bypasses (one per capacitor):
Vishay MKP1837.
My main goal with this upgrade is not only to improve sound quality but, in particular, eliminate the harshness/brightness of the RS8's. Will the upgrade do the job?
In one of your posts you mention that you need to "Net Flux and tin" the replacement caps. What does that mean and how do you do it?
Where do you place the long-haired wool and where can I buy some?
I currently use Kimber 8VS speaker cable (single run). Do you think it is worth upgrading the cables? How come you use QED SA for the lows and not some 8TC cable?
Sorry for bombarding you with all these questions! I am really anxious to start this project!!
I look forward to receiving your advice!
Iason
ag777:I have just finished bypassing Mundorf Supremes (6.8uF tweeter cap) with Mundorf Silver/Gold 0.01uF (not Silver/Gold/Oil - availabillity issues). Great improvement, maybe greater than from original Monitor Audio Caps replacement for Mundorf Supremes. Clear and transparent highs, very detailed and at the same time natural sound with no trace of my "old" RS8s harshness and excessive brightness.
Which of the components you upgraded do you think contributed the most to removing the harshness and excessive brightness of the RS8's? I am going to use Mundorf coils but was wondering if it was worth going for the Mundorf M-Cap Supremes instead of the Clarity Cap SA's...
icl:Trevor, you have inspired me to upgrade the crossovers in my RS8's and RSLCR. If you don't mind, I'd lke to confirm with you the components (and their values) you recommend. The codes in brackets are order codes from www.hificollective.co.uk.
Capacitors:
Per RS8:
Clarity Cap SA, 1 x 3.9 uF (CCSA230)
Clarity Cap SA , 1 x 6.8 uF (CCSA300) - How come you did not use a 6.2uF cap as it is closer to the original value of 6uF?
Coils:
L2 coils: Mundorf M-Coil Aronit-core coils (BA140)
L3/L4 coils: Mundorf Foil M-Coil (CFC-14)
Resistors:
Which one for the RS8's:
Mundorf M-Resist Supreme, 1.8 Ohm, 20 Watts (MRES20-040), or
Duelund Graphite Silver, 1.8 Ohm, 10 Watts (DUELR-040)
Probably would not be much difference, would there?
Bypasses (one per capacitor):
Vishay MKP1837.
My main goal with this upgrade is not only to improve sound quality but, in particular, eliminate the harshness/brightness of the RS8's. Will the upgrade do the job?
In one of your posts you mention that you need to "Net Flux and tin" the replacement caps. What does that mean and how do you do it?
Where do you place the long-haired wool and where can I buy some?
I currently use Kimber 8VS speaker cable (single run). Do you think it is worth upgrading the cables? How come you use QED SA for the lows and not some 8TC cable?
Sorry for bombarding you with all these questions! I am really anxious to start this project!!
I look forward to receiving your advice!
Iason
Sorry, I have been away so only just picked up on your post!
You seem to have nailed it, I didn't use the 6.2uf cap as it was not available when I did mine, the 6.8uf was the nearest value I could get. Your coils are the same ones I used. Sorry I cannot advise on the resistors as I haven't done an A/B comparision. Either should be just fine. I would be guided by Hi Fi collective on that.
Tinning the leads is just a procedure you do before soldering anything else onto it. The long hair wool I bought a box off Russ Andrews many years ago. Same with my 4TC speaker cable. My speakers are both bi amped and bi wired and as you have observed I use the better cable for the mid range / treble.
I find the SA cable fine for the bass, the really huge improvements to the whole performance comes with the pure mains supply and the elimination of the 'noise floor' through the whole system. The Sub handles most of the bass which is really impressive in its detail and tunefulness.
I think you will be astounded when you build up the crossovers, you won't believe your ears!
trevor79:Sorry, I have been away so only just picked up on your post!
You seem to have nailed it, I didn't use the 6.2uf cap as it was not available when I did mine, the 6.8uf was the nearest value I could get. Your coils are the same ones I used. Sorry I cannot advise on the resistors as I haven't done an A/B comparision. Either should be just fine. I would be guided by Hi Fi collective on that.
Tinning the leads is just a procedure you do before soldering anything else onto it. The long hair wool I bought a box off Russ Andrews many years ago. Same with my 4TC speaker cable. My speakers are both bi amped and bi wired and as you have observed I use the better cable for the mid range / treble.
I find the SA cable fine for the bass, the really huge improvements to the whole performance comes with the pure mains supply and the elimination of the 'noise floor' through the whole system. The Sub handles most of the bass which is really impressive in its detail and tunefulness.
I think you will be astounded when you build up the crossovers, you won't believe your ears!
Hi Trevor. Thanks for your reply.
I find that my RS8's are a little harsh with some music tracks - especially with female vocals. The harshness is in the treble (not very high, I think). It make the speakers tiring to listen to. Would the modification help there? How did the sound of your RS8's change after you upgraded the crossovers? Was it harsh to you prior to the modification?
They transformed the sound into a whole new level.
The effortless transparency and timing, detail and depth with a lovely easy feel to the ears.
Everything from all sources sounds good. We listen to them for at least 6 hours every day (TV, Films, Music) they never seem tiring.
Cannot recommend hand built with quality components crossovers high enough.
One of the most cost effective mods you can do IMO
Trevor,
When you say that they have "lovely easy feel to the ears" after the mod, are you omplying that before the mod you found the RS8's to be a little harsh in the mid/highs and tiring to tlisten to? I am trying to figure out if the improvement(
you experienced are the ones I am looking for.
Did you also mention in earlier post that you had some modded Rogers? I have a pair of Rogers LS7t's and was wondering what components would be best to use to mod them. The same makes as used for the RS8's?
On a value for money basis Clarity cap SA's stand out as being exceptional.
You have to buy speakers costing thousand of pounds more to have this quality of crossover parts fitted in them.
The massive reduction in the colouration of the sound is what these mods achieve. It's akin to wearing dark sunglasses and taking them off and viewing things in natural light.
Of course if you have a hang over this will not be an improvement!
trevor79 Could you please come and upgrade my RS 6 
Tweeter and mid attached to the top, with the bass units only to the bottom.
Have mine bi-amped. (200w x 2 per speaker)
Phone MA up for speaker wiring diagram, they will post you it out.